The Huggins Family Recipes

Snert, or Dutch split pea soup, is a beloved winter tradition in the Netherlands. This hearty, comforting soup warms cold bodies after a day of skating on frozen canals. Every family has its own cherished version, often prepared a day in advance so the flavors can deepen and the soup can thicken to its signature consistency—thick enough that a spoon can stand upright in the bowl. I first tasted snert in the province of Friesland, just after watching ice skaters compete in the Elfstedentocht, the legendary eleven-city race that only takes place in years when the ice is thick enough to carry thousands of racers across the canals.

Ingredients

For the Stock

• 2 smoked ham hocks (about 2 lb total)
• 10 cups (2.4 L) low-sodium chicken stock
• 1 onion, halved
• 1 celery stalk, cut in chunks
• 1 small carrot, cut in chunks
• 1 bay leaf
• 4 parsley stems
• ½ tsp black peppercorns

For the Soup

• 4 cups (800 g) dried green split peas, rinsed
• 2 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 1 leek (white and light green parts only), thinly sliced
• 2 celery stalks, finely diced (reserve a few leaves for garnish)
• 1 medium carrot, finely diced
• ½ small celeriac (or 1 potato), finely diced
• ½ tsp dried thyme
• ¼ tsp white pepper
• ½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine (optional but adds brightness)

To Finish

• 8 oz (225 g) rookworst or smoked sausage, thinly sliced
• 1–2 tsp apple cider vinegar (to taste)
• Kosher or table salt, to taste
• Small knob of butter or splash of cream (optional, for gloss)
• Celery leaves, celery leaf oil or finely chopped parsley, for garnish

Directions

Make the Stock (Can Be Done a Day Ahead)

Place ham hocks, chicken stock, onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf, parsley stems, and peppercorns in a large pot. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for 1½ hours, skimming foam as needed.

Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve and set aside. Discard the vegetables but reserve the hocks for meat later.

Build the Flavor Base

In a clean soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add onion, leek, celery, carrot, and celeriac. Sweat gently (do not brown) for 6–8 minutes until softened and aromatic. Add thyme and white pepper.

Deglaze and Simmer

If using, pour in white wine and simmer 1–2 minutes to reduce slightly. Add split peas and enough of the strained ham stock to cover by about 1 inch (you’ll have some stock left to adjust consistency later). Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook gently for 1½–2 hours, stirring occasionally, until peas have completely softened.

Blend for Smoothness

Remove from heat. Transfer about ¾ of the soup to a blender (or use an immersion blender) and puree until silky smooth. Pass through a fine mesh sieve or chinois for a restaurant-quality texture.

Return the puree to the pot along with the remaining unblended portion for a touch of rustic body.

Add Meats and Adjust Seasoning

Remove skin and bones from the ham hocks, finely dice the meat, and stir it into the soup with the sliced sausage. Simmer gently for 15–20 minutes to meld flavors.

Add vinegar, salt, and black pepper to taste. For a glossy finish, swirl in a small knob of butter or a splash of cream.

Fine-Tune Texture

Adjust consistency with reserved stock as needed. We prefer that it be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, but not so dense that it feels heavy, although many like it thick enough to stand a spoon in it.

Serve

Ladle the soup into wide, shallow bowls. Arrange a few slices of sausage and cubes of ham neatly in the center. Garnish with a few drops of celery leaf oil or a drizzle of olive oil. Add finely chopped celery leaves or micro herbs for color and freshness. Optionally, serve with a crisp rye toast point or small bacon tuile on the rim.

Notes

Preparation

• Keep heat gentle during simmering to preserve the soup’s bright green hue.
• The vinegar is key—it sharpens the flavor and keeps it from feeling heavy.
• Passing through a fine sieve gives the soup that unmistakable restaurant-level smoothness.
• Like all good snert, it deepens in flavor overnight. Reheat gently and adjust texture before serving.

EASY RUSTIC VERSION

Ingredients

• 4 cups dried split peas, rinsed
• 2 ham hocks
• 8 chicken bouillon cubes
• 1 onion, finely diced
• 1 bunch leeks, thinly sliced (green tops discarded)
• 1 bunch celery (including leaves), finely chopped
• 2 bay leaves
• kielbasa (or smoked sausage), cut into disks
• vinegar

Directions

Combine all ingredients except kielbasa and vinegar in a crock pot; add water to about 1 inch from the top of the crock pot. Cook on high for approximately 8 hours.

Remove hocks and bay leaves; slice meat from hocks and add back to soup (discard bones and skin).

Stir in kielbasa and cook for an additional hour. Add a small amount of vinegar just prior to serving to brighten the flavor.