Pagotó kaïmáki (παγωτό καϊμάκι) is a traditional Greek ice cream known for the distinctive aromatic flavor of Chios mastiha and its unusually creamy, slightly elastic texture. Mastiha gives the ice cream a fresh, gently piney fragrance that becomes fuller as the base rests overnight. This eggless version keeps that unusual flavor at the center, while Fabbri Amarena cherries and a spoonful of their syrup add a sweet-tart finish.
Ingredients
- 500 g whole milk
- 200 g heavy cream
- 150 g granulated sugar, divided
- 10 g tapioca flour
- 0.4 g xanthan gum
- 0.5 g Chios mastiha tears
- 1 g table salt
For Serving
- Fabbri Amarena cherries, 2–3 per serving
- Amarena cherry syrup, 1–2 tsp per serving
Directions
Prepare the Mastiha
Place the mastiha tears in the freezer for 30 minutes. Grind the cold mastiha with 10 g of the sugar until very fine, then set aside.
Cook the Base
Whisk together the remaining 140 g sugar, tapioca flour, xanthan gum, and salt in a saucepan. Gradually whisk in the milk, followed by the cream.
Cook over medium heat, whisking frequently, until the mixture reaches 180–185°F. Hold it in that range for approximately 1 minute while whisking.
Remove from the heat and immediately add the ground mastiha mixture. Blend with an immersion blender for 15–20 seconds, then strain into a clean container.
Chill and Churn
Chill the base over an ice bath, cover, and refrigerate for at least 6–8 hours, preferably overnight.
Churn in the Breville SmartScoop using the firmest gelato setting. Transfer to a freezer container and freeze for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.
Serve
Let the ice cream temper at room temperature for 8–10 minutes. Top each serving with 2–3 Amarena cherries and 1–2 tsp of their syrup.
Notes
Texture and Flavor
- Traditional kaïmáki gets its distinctive elasticity from salep. Tapioca flour and xanthan give this version a creamy, lightly elastic texture without salep.
- The mastiha flavor becomes fuller as the base rests. Do not skip the extended refrigeration before churning.
- Weigh the mastiha carefully; even small changes noticeably affect its aromatic, resinous flavor.
Serving
- Keep the cherries and syrup out of the churn so the kaïmáki’s texture and flavor remain the focus.
- Makes approximately 1 quart, or 8 modest servings.
Make-Ahead & Storage
- The base can be prepared and refrigerated in a covered container up to 1 day before churning.
- For the best texture, store the finished ice cream airtight with parchment pressed against the surface and enjoy within 2 weeks.

