Buttery

Oma Rasch was a spunky little lady, full of equal parts sugar and spice. I fondly remember the fun we had while I lived in her second-story row house on Krugerstraat in Den Helder, at the northernmost point of North Holland. Even in her 80s, she climbed the steep, treacherous staircase each day and set off on her bicycle to run errands. She was always willing to help as I worked to learn Dutch, once telling me, after I repeated a particularly colorful word, “There are no bad words, just words you shouldn’t use around nette mensen (respectable people).” A common treat in her home was homemade boterkoek—rich, golden, and fragrant. Whenever we walked in and smelled that buttery aroma, we knew we were in for ‘een lekker toetje’, a truly ‘heerlijk’ dessert.

Ingredients

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• ¼ tsp table salt
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten, divided
• ½ tbsp milk or buttermilk (for egg wash)

Optional Flavor Variations:

• Citrus: Zest of ½ a lemon, lime, or orange, plus a small splash of juice
• Almond: ½–1 tsp almond extract, topped with almond halves before baking
• Speculaas: 1–1½ tsp speculaaskruiden (Dutch speculaas spice blend)
• Ginger: 1–2 tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger folded into the dough
• Vanilla Sugar: 1–2 tbsp vanilla sugar mixed into the dough or sprinkled lightly on top

Directions

Prepare the Pan and Oven:

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter an 8- or 9-inch round cake pan, then line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper. Lightly dust the sides with flour and tap out any excess. A springform or removable-bottom pan makes unmolding and slicing easier, but a standard pan works as well.

Mix the Dough:

In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg with a fork. Transfer about 1 tbsp of the beaten egg to a separate small bowl, add the milk or buttermilk, and whisk to combine for the egg wash. Set aside.

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the butter and sugar. Beat just until smooth, creamy, and well combined (do not whip until light and fluffy—you want a dense boterkoek, not a cake). Add the remaining beaten egg (from the larger portion) and mix only until incorporated. If using any flavorings (citrus zest, almond extract, speculaaskruiden, crystallized ginger, or vanilla sugar), mix them in at this stage.

Add the flour and salt. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, fold and stir just until no dry flour remains and the dough comes together. The dough will be stiff but cohesive; avoid overmixing.

Chill the Dough:

Scrape the dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap and pat it into a thick disk. Wrap tightly and refrigerate for 20–30 minutes, until firm but still pliable. Overchilling will make the dough harder to press evenly into the pan.

Press, Crosshatch, and Glaze:

Transfer the chilled dough to the prepared pan. Using your fingertips or the back of a spoon, press it evenly into the pan, smoothing the surface and making sure it reaches all the way to the edges.

Using the tines of a fork, lightly score a crosshatch pattern across the top of the dough. For the cleanest lines, wipe the fork between strokes as needed.

Gently brush the surface with a thin, even layer of the egg wash. Avoid pooling, especially around the edges, which can create hard spots as it bakes.

Bake:

Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 25–35 minutes, until the edges are deep golden brown and the center is just set and a lighter golden color. The top should not puff dramatically. Begin checking around 25 minutes, rotating the pan if needed for even browning. The boterkoek will continue to firm as it cools.

Cool, Rest, and Serve:

Remove the pan from the oven and place it on a wire rack. Let the boterkoek cool completely in the pan. Once cool, run a thin knife around the edge to loosen, then invert or release from the pan and remove the parchment.

For the best flavor and texture, allow the boterkoek to rest for several hours or overnight before slicing. Cut into small wedges (it is rich) and serve at room temperature.

Notes

Preparation

• Use unsalted butter for the cleanest flavor and better control over salt. The butter should be cool room temperature—soft enough to press a finger into, but not greasy or melting.
• Be careful not to over-aerate the butter and sugar; mixing just until smooth (rather than light and fluffy) keeps the boterkoek dense and tender, as it should be.
• For easy release and clean slices, butter the pan and line the bottom with parchment. A springform or removable-bottom pan is especially handy if you plan to unmold it for serving on a platter.
• Approximately equal amounts of butter, sugar, and flour by weight are used in this recipe, which is traditional for Dutch boterkoek and gives it its rich, close-crumb texture.
• Altitude adjustments (high altitude ~4,750 ft / 1,450 m): Because this is a dense, non-leavened cake, ingredient changes are usually unnecessary. Begin checking for doneness a few minutes early and remove from the oven once the edges are deep golden and the center is just set. At sea level, follow the base recipe and bake until the center is just set and no longer looks wet.

Serving Suggestions

• Cut into small wedges or narrow bars—boterkoek is rich and meant to be enjoyed in modest slices.
• Serve alongside afternoon coffee, as is common in Dutch homes.
• For a simple dessert, pair with lightly sweetened whipped cream and fresh berries or stone fruit.
• Include on a cookie or dessert tray with other Dutch favorites such as speculaas or stroopwafels.

Variations

• Citrus Boterkoek: Add the finely grated zest of ½ a lemon, lime, or orange, plus a small splash of juice, to the dough along with the egg. This adds a bright, fragrant edge that balances the richness.
• Almond Boterkoek: Add ½–1 tsp almond extract to the dough, then press blanched or sliced almonds gently into the top before baking. Almond is a very traditional flavor; start with the smaller amount of extract and increase to taste.
• Speculaas Boterkoek: Add 1–1½ tsp speculaaskruiden (Dutch speculaas spice blend) with the flour for a warm, spiced version that’s especially nice around the holidays.
• Ginger Boterkoek: Fold 1–2 tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger into the dough before pressing it into the pan for pockets of sweet, spicy heat.
• Vanilla Sugar Boterkoek: Replace 1–2 tbsp of the sugar with vanilla sugar, or sprinkle a light dusting of vanilla sugar over the top right after baking for extra aroma.

Make-Ahead & Storage

• Boterkoek is an excellent make-ahead dessert. The flavor and texture actually improve after resting for several hours or overnight.
• Once completely cool, wrap tightly or store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3–4 days.
• For longer storage, wrap wedges or the whole boterkoek well and freeze for up to 2 months. Thaw at room temperature in the wrapping to preserve moisture.
• If the surface softens slightly after storage, a brief rest uncovered at room temperature will help the top regain a gentle firmness.