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  • Keftedes (Κεφτέδες) — Greek Meatballs with Tzatziki

    Keftedes (Κεφτέδες) — Greek Meatballs with Tzatziki

    Our family loves Greek food, especially when there’s a generous bowl of tzatziki on the table. These baked Greek meatballs, known as keftedes (κεφτέδες), combine beef and pork with just enough lamb to add savory depth without taking over. Baked until browned and served with warm flatbread triangles and plenty of cool tzatziki, they’re tender, herbaceous, and made for sharing.

    Ingredients

    Tzatziki

    • 1 English cucumber, diced or grated
    • 1½ cups (about 360 g) plain Greek yogurt
    • 2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
    • 1 tsp garlic, minced
    • ½ tsp table salt
    • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

    Meatballs

    • 1½ lb (680 g) ground beef, preferably 85% lean
    • ¼ lb (113 g) ground pork
    • ¼ lb (113 g) ground lamb
    • ⅓ cup (about 40 g) plain breadcrumbs
    • ⅓ cup (80 g) whole milk
    • 1 tbsp dried parsley
    • 1 large egg
    • ½ medium yellow onion (about 100 g), finely grated
    • 1 tbsp (about 10 g) garlic, minced
    • 1 tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped
    • Zest of 1 lemon
    • 1 tbsp dried oregano, rubbed between your palms before adding
    • ½ tsp ground cumin
    • 2 tsp table salt
    • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
    • 1 tbsp (15 ml) extra virgin olive oil

    For Serving

    • Flatbread, warmed and cut into triangles
    • Lemon wedges

    Directions

    Make the Tzatziki

    If the cucumber seems especially juicy, squeeze it lightly in a clean kitchen towel to remove excess moisture.

    Stir together the cucumber, Greek yogurt, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, salt, and black pepper.

    Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving to allow the flavors to meld.

    Prepare the Meatball Mixture

    Preheat the oven to 425°F (218°C). Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet.

    Combine the breadcrumbs, milk, and dried parsley in a large mixing bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes, until the milk is absorbed and the parsley has softened.

    Add the egg, grated onion, garlic, mint, lemon zest, oregano, cumin, salt, black pepper, and olive oil. Mix until evenly combined.

    Add the ground beef, pork, and lamb. Mix gently but thoroughly, stopping as soon as the meats and seasonings are evenly distributed.

    Shape and Bake

    Cook a small test patty in a skillet and adjust the seasoning if needed.

    Divide the mixture into approximately 24 portions of about 1¾ oz (50 g) each. Gently roll into meatballs and arrange on the prepared baking sheet with a little space between them.

    Bake for 16 to 20 minutes, until browned and the centers reach 160°F (71°C).

    For deeper browning, broil for 1 to 2 minutes at the end, watching closely. Rest for 5 minutes before serving.

    Warm the Flatbread and Serve

    Warm the flatbread on a hot skillet, grill, or griddle until soft and lightly toasted, then cut into triangles.

    Serve the meatballs on a platter with warm flatbread triangles, lemon wedges, and plenty of tzatziki.

    Yield: Approximately 24 meatballs (8 servings).

    Notes

    Preparation

    • The ¼ lb (113 g) of lamb accounts for about 12½% of the meat blend. It adds background richness without making the meatballs taste strongly of lamb.
    • Mix gently and avoid tightly compressing the meatballs so they remain tender.

    Variations

    • Adjust the ½ lb (about 227 g) combined pork and lamb to taste, using all pork, all lamb, or any blend in between. The equal amounts of ¼ lb (113 g) each keep the lamb flavor relatively mild.
    • Replace the dried parsley with ¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley for a brighter herb flavor.
    • Panko breadcrumbs may be substituted for the plain breadcrumbs; use 1½ oz (45 g).
    • For traditionally fried keftedes, heat about ¼ inch (6 mm) olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Fry the meatballs in batches, turning occasionally, until deeply browned and the centers reach 160°F (71°C), about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain briefly on paper towels before serving.
    • For a more traditional herb note in the tzatziki, add 1 to 2 tsp finely chopped fresh dill or mint.

    Serving Suggestions

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • The tzatziki can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated in a covered container.
    • The meatballs can be mixed, shaped, covered, and refrigerated up to 24 hours before baking.
    • Cooked meatballs can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat covered at 325°F (163°C), then uncover briefly to restore the browned exterior.
    • For longer storage, freeze the shaped uncooked meatballs on a tray, then transfer them to a freezer-safe container once solid. Freeze for up to 3 months and thaw overnight in the refrigerator before baking.
  • Shoarma Burgers

    Shoarma Burgers

    These cheese-stuffed shoarma burgers have been my son’s favorite dinner for years. The beef-and-pork patties are seasoned with Dutch shoarma kruiden, grilled over charcoal, and served in warm pita with butter lettuce, ripe tomatoes, shoarmasaus, knoflooksaus, and sambal oelek at the table. Fill them with mild fresh mozzarella or tangy goat cheese—or make some of each, as we usually do.

    Ingredients

    Shoarma Burgers

    • 2 lb (907 g) ground beef
    • 1 lb (454 g) ground pork
    • 1 tbsp sambal oelek
    • 1½ tbsp finely chopped or grated fresh garlic
    • 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
    • 2 tsp table salt
    • 3.5 g MSG
    • 4 tbsp shoarma kruiden
    • ¼ cup (60 g) plain yogurt
    • ¼ cup (60 ml) finely chopped fresh cilantro
    • Fresh sliced mozzarella, 0.9–1.1 oz (25–30 g), or goat cheese, 1.1–1.2 oz (30–35 g), per burger

    For Serving

    • 7 pita breads or hamburger buns
    • butter lettuce leaves
    • ripe sliced tomatoes, preferably garden tomatoes
    • shoarmasaus
    • knoflooksaus
    • lime wedges
    • sambal oelek

    Directions

    Prepare the Sauces

    Prepare the shoarmasaus and knoflooksaus at least 4 hours before serving, preferably the night before, so their flavors have time to develop.

    Mix the Meat

    Place the ground beef, ground pork, sambal oelek, garlic, ginger, salt, MSG, shoarma kruiden, yogurt, and cilantro in a large bowl. Mix thoroughly by hand until the seasonings are evenly distributed and the meat becomes cohesive and slightly tacky. A portion pressed together should hold its shape without cracking or crumbling. Keep the mixture as cold as possible while working.

    Fill and Shape the Patties

    Divide the meat mixture into 7 equal portions. Working with one portion at a time, place approximately half in the bottom of a burger press or shape it by hand to create a solid base. Place 0.9–1.1 oz (25–30 g) fresh sliced mozzarella or 1.1–1.2 oz (30–35 g) goat cheese in the center, leaving a generous border around the cheese. Cover completely with the remaining meat and form into a thick patty, approximately 8.8 oz (250 g) including the filling.

    Smooth and gently compress the exterior. Carefully inspect the top, bottom, and edges, pinching closed every seam or opening through which the cheese could escape. Repeat with the remaining meat and cheese.

    Chill the Patties

    Arrange the formed patties on a covered tray and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before grilling.

    Prepare the Charcoal Grill

    Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking, with a hot direct-heat area and a cooler indirect-heat area. Clean and lightly oil the grill grate.

    Grill the Burgers

    Place the chilled patties over direct heat and grill until well browned. Turn carefully without pressing down with a spatula. If the exteriors brown before the centers are cooked, move the patties to the cooler side of the grill, close the lid, and finish over indirect heat.

    Cook until the meat surrounding the cheese reaches 160°F (71°C). Insert an instant-read thermometer horizontally through the side of each patty, aiming for the meat rather than the cheese filling. Transfer to a platter and rest for 3–5 minutes.

    Finish and Assemble

    Squeeze a lime wedge lightly over each rested burger. Warm the pita bread briefly on the grill, then fill each pita with a burger, butter lettuce, ripe sliced tomato, shoarmasaus, and knoflooksaus. Hamburger buns may be substituted for the pita. Serve immediately with additional sambal oelek and lime wedges at the table.

    Yield: 7 burgers.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Fresh mozzarella creates a mild, melty center and is generally preferred by younger children.
    • Goat cheese provides a tangier, more pronounced filling.
    • Keep the cheese cold and compact in the center of each patty to make the burgers easier to seal.
    • A burger press makes the stuffed patties easier to shape, but they can also be formed and sealed by hand.
    • Mixing until the meat becomes slightly tacky helps the large patties hold together on the grill.
    • Do not press the patties with a spatula while grilling, as this can force the cheese through the sealed exterior.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • The sauces are best prepared the day before serving.
    • The patties may be formed, covered, and refrigerated earlier the same day.
    • Refrigerate leftover cooked burgers in an airtight container up to 3 days.
  • Bahmi Goreng — Indonesian Fried Noodles

    Bahmi Goreng — Indonesian Fried Noodles

    When Jane and I returned home from our honeymoon, we talked about what to have for dinner that first Sunday back. I said Indonesian sounded great—she had no idea what I meant. That conversation started what has since become one of our favorite family food traditions. The first time I made bahmi goreng for her, the kitchen filled with the aroma of garlic, chilies, and ketjap caramelizing in a hot wok, and she was instantly hooked. Ever since, this dish has represented warmth, comfort, and the sense of adventure we shared from the very beginning. Stir-fried noodles tossed with tender chicken, pork, and shrimp, fragrant with galangal and brightened with lime, bring a taste of Indonesia to our table time and again.

    Ingredients

    Noodles

    Proteins

    • 4 oz (115 g) small shrimp, peeled and halved lengthwise (optional)
    • 4 oz (115 g) chicken breast, thinly sliced
    • 4 oz (115 g) lean pork or thinly sliced beef

    Optional Quick Marinades

    • For Shrimp: ½ tsp light soy sauce, ¼ tsp fish sauce, ¼ tsp cornstarch, pinch white pepper
    • For Pork: 1 tsp ketjap manis, ½ tsp light soy sauce, ¼ tsp cornstarch, ¼ tsp minced garlic
    • For Chicken: 1 tsp ketjap manis, ½ tsp light soy sauce, ¼ tsp cornstarch, ¼ tsp minced garlic, pinch white pepper

    Vegetables

    • 2 cups (about 140 g) shredded white cabbage or Chinese cabbage
    • 4 green onions, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces

    Bumbu (Spice Paste)

    • 3½ oz (100 g) shallots, roughly chopped
    • 4–5 cloves garlic
    • ½ oz (15 g) fresh galangal, sliced (or ½ tsp galangal powder)
    • 1–2 fresh red chilies, seeded if desired
    • 1 tbsp chopped cilantro stems

    Seasoning Sauce

    • 2 tbsp (30 ml) ketjap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce)
    • 1 tbsp (15 ml) light soy sauce
    • ⅓ tsp MSG (optional but recommended)
    • ¼ tsp ground white pepper
    • ⅛ tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp fish sauce (optional, for added umami)
    • 1–2 tbsp (15–30 ml) hot water, as needed

    Cooking Oil

    • 3 tbsp (45 ml) peanut oil, divided

    Optional Flavor Boost

    • 1 tsp tomato paste

    Finishing & Garnishes

    • Fresh lime juice, to taste
    • Fresh cilantro leaves
    • Fried shallots
    • Reserved chili slivers
    • Omelet shreds (optional)
    • Fried onion flakes (optional)

    For Serving

    • Lime wedges
    • Sambal oelek or sambal badjak
    • Extra ketjap manis

    Directions

    Prepare the Noodles

    Cook the noodles according to package directions until just tender. Drain well and toss lightly with about 1 tsp of the peanut oil to prevent sticking.

    Spread the noodles out on a tray or colander and let them cool slightly while preparing the remaining ingredients.

    Optional: Marinate the Proteins

    If using the marinades, toss each protein with its respective marinade ingredients and let stand for 10–15 minutes while preparing the vegetables and bumbu.

    Prepare the Bumbu

    In a food processor or mortar and pestle, grind the shallots, garlic, galangal, chilies, and cilantro stems into a coarse aromatic paste.

    Prepare the Vegetables

    Shred the cabbage and cut the green onions into 1-inch (2.5 cm) lengths.

    Cook the Proteins

    Heat 1 tbsp (15 ml) peanut oil in a wok over high heat until shimmering.

    Add the chicken and pork (or beef) and spread them across the surface of the wok. Let them sear undisturbed for about 30 seconds before stir-frying.

    Continue stir-frying until the pork is cooked through and the thickest pieces of chicken register 165°F (74°C), about 2–3 minutes.

    Add the shrimp and cook briefly until pink. Transfer all proteins to a plate and set aside.

    Cook the Bumbu

    Add the remaining peanut oil to the wok.

    Add the bumbu paste and stir-fry for about 2 minutes until fragrant.

    If using the tomato paste, add it now and cook about 30 seconds until lightly caramelized.

    Build the Stir-Fry

    Add the cabbage and green onions and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes.

    Add the noodles and toss well with the aromatics.

    Return the proteins to the wok.

    Season and Finish

    Add the ketjap manis, soy sauce, MSG, white pepper, turmeric, and fish sauce if using.

    Toss everything over high heat until evenly coated and glossy. If the noodles absorb the sauce too quickly, add 1–2 tbsp (15–30 ml) hot water to loosen the sauce and help it coat the noodles.

    Finish with a squeeze of fresh lime juice.

    Serve

    Garnish with cilantro leaves, fried shallots, chili slivers, and optional omelet shreds or fried onion flakes. Serve with lime wedges, sambal, and extra ketjap manis.

    Yield: 4 servings.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Chinese egg noodles or lo mein noodles work best for this dish.
    • If ketjap manis is unavailable, substitute 1 tbsp (15 ml) soy sauce mixed with 2 tsp brown sugar.
    • If using a less sweet ketjap manis, add ½ tsp brown sugar to balance the sauce.
    • A small amount of fish sauce adds savory depth similar to Indonesian shrimp paste.
    • The tomato paste adds deeper color and umami reminiscent of Dutch-Indo restaurant versions.

    Variations

    • Additional Vegetables: Bahmi goreng is highly adaptable—add vegetables like bean sprouts, julienned carrots, green beans, snap peas, or bell peppers depending on what you have on hand. Keep the total amount of added vegetables moderate so the noodles remain the focus. Cook additional vegetables quickly over high heat to avoid excess moisture and steaming.
    • Extra Heat: Increase the chilies or add sambal badjak for a spicier Javanese-style version.
    • Sesame Aroma: A light drizzle (about ½ tsp) sesame oil over the finished noodles adds subtle aroma.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Serve with krupuk (Indonesian shrimp crackers).
    • A fried egg on top is a popular Indonesian presentation.
    • A side of acar timun adds refreshing contrast.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Best served fresh from the wok.
    • Leftovers keep up to 2 days refrigerated.
    • Reheat in a skillet with a splash of water or oil.
  • Snert — Erwtensoep — Dutch Split Pea Soup

    Snert — Erwtensoep — Dutch Split Pea Soup

    Snert, or Dutch split pea soup, is a beloved winter tradition in the Netherlands. This hearty, comforting soup warms cold bodies after a day of skating on frozen canals. Every family has its own cherished version, often prepared a day in advance so the flavors can deepen and the soup can thicken to its signature consistency—thick enough that a spoon can stand upright in the bowl. I first tasted snert in the province of Friesland, just after watching ice skaters compete in the Elfstedentocht, the legendary eleven-city race that only takes place in years when the ice is thick enough to carry thousands of racers across the canals.

    Ingredients

      For the Stock

    • 2 smoked ham hocks (about 2 lb total)
    • 10 cups (2.4 L) low-sodium chicken stock
    • 1 onion, halved
    • 1 celery stalk, cut in chunks
    • 1 small carrot, cut in chunks
    • 1 bay leaf
    • 4 parsley stems
    • ½ tsp black peppercorns

      • For the Soup

    • 4 cups (800 g) dried green split peas, rinsed
    • 2 tbsp unsalted butter
    • 1 medium onion, finely diced
    • 1 leek (white and light green parts only), thinly sliced
    • 2 celery stalks, finely diced (reserve a few leaves for garnish)
    • 1 medium carrot, finely diced
    • ½ small celeriac (or 1 potato), finely diced
    • ½ tsp dried thyme
    • ¼ tsp white pepper
    • ½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine (optional but adds brightness)

      • To Finish

    • 8 oz (225 g) rookworst or smoked sausage, thinly sliced
    • 1–2 tsp apple cider vinegar (to taste)
    • Kosher or table salt, to taste
    • Small knob of butter or splash of cream (optional, for gloss)
    • Celery leaves, celery leaf oil or finely chopped parsley, for garnish

    Directions

    Make the Stock (Can Be Done a Day Ahead)

    Place ham hocks, chicken stock, onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf, parsley stems, and peppercorns in a large pot. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for 1½ hours, skimming foam as needed.

    Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve and set aside. Discard the vegetables but reserve the hocks for meat later.

    Build the Flavor Base

    In a clean soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add onion, leek, celery, carrot, and celeriac. Sweat gently (do not brown) for 6–8 minutes until softened and aromatic. Add thyme and white pepper.

    Deglaze and Simmer

    If using, pour in white wine and simmer 1–2 minutes to reduce slightly. Add split peas and enough of the strained ham stock to cover by about 1 inch (you’ll have some stock left to adjust consistency later). Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook gently for 1½–2 hours, stirring occasionally, until peas have completely softened.

    Blend for Smoothness

    Remove from heat. Transfer about ¾ of the soup to a blender (or use an immersion blender) and puree until silky smooth. Pass through a fine mesh sieve or chinois for a restaurant-quality texture.

    Return the puree to the pot along with the remaining unblended portion for a touch of rustic body.

    Add Meats and Adjust Seasoning

    Remove skin and bones from the ham hocks, finely dice the meat, and stir it into the soup with the sliced sausage. Simmer gently for 15–20 minutes to meld flavors.

    Add vinegar, salt, and black pepper to taste. For a glossy finish, swirl in a small knob of butter or a splash of cream.

    Fine-Tune Texture

    Adjust consistency with reserved stock as needed. We prefer that it be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, but not so dense that it feels heavy, although many like it thick enough to stand a spoon in it.

    Serve

    Ladle the soup into wide, shallow bowls. Arrange a few slices of sausage and cubes of ham neatly in the center. Garnish with a few drops of celery leaf oil or a drizzle of olive oil. Add finely chopped celery leaves or micro herbs for color and freshness. Optionally, serve with a crisp rye toast point or small bacon tuile on the rim.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Keep heat gentle during simmering to preserve the soup’s bright green hue.
    • The vinegar is key—it sharpens the flavor and keeps it from feeling heavy.
    • Passing through a fine sieve gives the soup that unmistakable restaurant-level smoothness.
    • Like all good snert, it deepens in flavor overnight. Reheat gently and adjust texture before serving.

    EASY RUSTIC VERSION

    Ingredients

    • 4 cups dried split peas, rinsed
    • 2 ham hocks
    • 8 chicken bouillon cubes
    • 1 onion, finely diced
    • 1 bunch leeks, thinly sliced (green tops discarded)
    • 1 bunch celery (including leaves), finely chopped
    • 2 bay leaves
    • kielbasa (or smoked sausage), cut into disks
    • vinegar

    Directions

    Combine all ingredients except kielbasa and vinegar in a crock pot; add water to about 1 inch from the top of the crock pot. Cook on high for approximately 8 hours.

    Remove hocks and bay leaves; slice meat from hocks and add back to soup (discard bones and skin).

    Stir in kielbasa and cook for an additional hour. Add a small amount of vinegar just prior to serving to brighten the flavor.

  • Carnitas

    Carnitas

    These carnitas take inspiration from traditional Michoacán-style cooking—slow-simmered in rich pork fat, brightened with citrus, and finished until the edges are irresistibly crisp. Whether cooked in a cowboy wok over an open flame or in a Dutch oven on the stovetop, this method delivers deeply savory, tender pork with the classic crispy bits that make great street-taco carnitas unforgettable.

    Ingredients

    • 8 lbs pork shoulder, cut into 4-inch chunks
    • 8 lbs lard (or enough to submerge pork by at least ¾)
    • 4 tbsp table salt, divided (2 tbsp sprinkled directly over the pork, 2 tbsp dissolved in ½ cup hot water)
    • ½ cup hot water
    • 1 can evaporated milk
    • 1 bottle Coca-Cola
    • Juice of 3 oranges (at least ½ cup), plus the halved oranges
    • 2–3 bay leaves
    • 15–20 whole garlic cloves, peeled
    • ½ onion, cut into wedges
    • Yield: Approximately 4.5–5 lbs carnitas (about 20–24 tacos, using 1.5–2 oz meat per street taco or 2.5–3 oz for larger tacos)

    Directions

    Season the Pork

    Sprinkle 2 tbsp salt evenly over the pork and let sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature. Dissolve the remaining 2 tbsp salt in ½ cup hot water and set aside.

    For deeper seasoning, you can salt the pork 12–24 hours ahead: sprinkle the 2 tbsp salt over the pork, cover or leave uncovered for lightly dried edges, and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator 30–45 minutes before cooking.

    Initial Frying (Browning Stage)

    In a large discada (cowboy wok/plow disk) or deep Dutch oven, heat the lard to 350°F over medium heat. Add the pork in a single layer—working in batches if needed to avoid overcrowding—and cook, turning every 15 minutes, until the surfaces are deep golden brown, about 30–45 minutes.

    Prepare to Add Liquids (Safety Step)

    Reduce heat to low, then turn off the heat completely and let the lard cool until the bubbling subsides, 2–3 minutes, to reduce boil-over risk. Once the fat is calm, carefully add the evaporated milk, Coca-Cola, the salted water, freshly squeezed orange juice, the halved oranges, bay leaves, garlic cloves, and onion wedges.

    Slow Simmer (Confit Stage)

    Return heat to medium-low and maintain a gentle simmer (around 225°F), with small, lazy bubbles breaking around the edges. Cook until the pork is fork-tender and most of the liquid has evaporated, allowing the milk and Coke sugars to caramelize, about 1.5–2 hours. Stir every 20–30 minutes during the final reduction to prevent scorching.

    Finish & Crisp

    Once the liquid has fully reduced, remove and discard the bay leaves, citrus halves, and onion wedges. The pork will begin frying again in the rendered fat. Increase the heat slightly and crisp the carnitas to your preferred texture, turning occasionally until browned, crispy on the edges, and easily shreddable. Shred or chop into bite-sized pieces and serve hot.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Salting the pork 12–24 hours in advance deepens the seasoning and can improve browning; just be sure to bring the pork toward room temperature before cooking.
    • Use enough lard to submerge the pork by at least ¾ for even cooking and browning, especially in a deep Dutch oven.
    • Always allow the lard to stop actively bubbling before adding liquids to reduce the risk of boil-over or splattering.
    • During the confit stage, aim for a gentle simmer with small bubbles around the edges of the pot rather than a vigorous boil.
    • As the liquid reduces and the sugars caramelize, stir periodically to prevent scorching on the bottom of the pan.
    • Handling this much volume can be a challenge. I always use my rimmed Discada (aka Cowboy Wok or Disco). The specific tools I use are listed on my kitchen tools page.

    Serving Suggestions

    For tacos, serve warm carnitas in heated corn tortillas with diced onion, chopped cilantro, crumbled queso fresco, and homemade Salsa Verde or Chile de Árbol Salsa.

    • Serve with lime wedges for brightness.
    • Brush tortillas lightly with pork fat before warming for taquería-style flavor.
    • Add a sprinkle of flaky salt right before serving.
    • For extra-crispy edges, reheat portions on a hot plancha or cast-iron skillet until sizzling.

    Variations

    • Pressure Cooker Shortcut: For a faster version, season the pork as directed and place it in a pressure cooker or Instant Pot with the orange juice, halved oranges, bay leaves, garlic, onion, and about 1 cup water (omit the lard, Coke, and evaporated milk at this stage). Cook on high pressure for 35 minutes, then allow a natural release. Once tender, transfer the drained pork to a large pan with lard, Coke, and evaporated milk, then simmer and fry as directed to caramelize and crisp the edges.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Cool carnitas to room temperature, then refrigerate in an airtight container with some of the cooking fat spooned over the top for up to 4–5 days.
    • For longer storage, freeze cooled carnitas (with a thin layer of fat) in freezer-safe bags or containers for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before reheating.
    • To reheat, warm carnitas in a skillet over medium to medium-high heat with a spoonful of reserved fat, spreading the meat into an even layer and allowing the edges to crisp before stirring.
    • Reheated carnitas often develop even better texture and flavor after a second round of crisping.
  • Chile Verde Burritos

    Chile Verde Burritos

    The 9th of 11, Grandma grew up in a large family that loved to sing together while washing dishes after a delicious meal. Nobody ever walked away hungry–a tradition that continues to this day. Every year Grandma’s family would meet for a week-long family reunion. Our family and Uncle Jay’s (#10 of 11) would never miss. We’d always extend the reunion by a week, spending extra time with Uncle Jay, Aunt Barbara, and their four kids. Our adventures were so memorable that many of my favorite childhood memories include Uncle Jay’s family. The first time I remember eating these burritos was at a dinner in their home in San Jose. I still drool a little every time I think about it! This recipe is a variation of Uncle Jay’s, adapted for the Instant Pot. While his original uses red Los Palmas sauce, my version uses green enchilada sauce and a flavorful braising liquid seasoned with citrus, chiles, and spices. Pressure cooking produces tender, flavorful pork while making the recipe easier to prepare for a larger group.

    Ingredients

    • 3–4 lb (1.4–1.8 kg) pork shoulder (½ of a boneless shoulder)
    • 1 tbsp (15 ml) lard plus 2 tbsp (30 ml) avocado oil, divided
    • 2 large onions, chopped
    • 1 recipe Refried Beans
    • 1 can, 7 oz (198 g), Ortega diced green chiles, undrained
    • 1–2 cups (240–475 ml) homemade green enchilada sauce (or Los Palmas), to taste
    • jack cheese, grated
    • flour tortillas

    Braising Liquid

    • 1½ cups (355 ml) chicken broth
    • ½ cup (about 15 g) cilantro
    • ⅓ cup (80 ml) avocado oil
    • ¼ cup (60 ml) soy sauce
    • ¼ cup (60 ml) orange juice
    • 2 tbsp (30 ml) lime juice
    • 2 tsp salt
    • 1 jalapeño, minced
    • 1 tsp cumin
    • 1 tsp chipotle chili powder
    • 1 tsp ancho chili powder
    • ½ tsp garlic powder
    • ½ tsp onion powder
    • ½ tsp Mexican oregano
    • ¼ tsp cinnamon

    For Serving

    • diced white onion and chopped cilantro, to taste (optional)

    For Smothered Burritos (Optional)

    • 1 can, 28 oz (794 g), Los Palmas green enchilada sauce
    • 1 tbsp (12 g) sugar
    • ⅓ cup (80 ml) reserved braising liquid
    • ¼–½ tsp xanthan gum

    Directions

    Braise

    Slice pork shoulder into chunks of about 1 lb (454 g) each. In an Instant Pot, combine all braising liquid ingredients.

    In a skillet, heat 1 tbsp (15 ml) avocado oil and 1 tbsp (15 ml) lard; brown pork chunks on all sides and place in braising liquid.

    Place lid on Instant Pot and close steam vent. Process on high pressure for 45 minutes.

    Allow pressure to release naturally for 30 minutes.

    Combine Ingredients

    Add an additional 1 tbsp (15 ml) avocado oil to skillet and heat until shimmering. Add onion and sauté until softened and slightly browned.

    Place refried beans in a large mixing bowl; stir in sautéed onions, green chiles, and enchilada sauce.

    Remove meat from braising liquid and cut into chunks or shred; stir into refried bean mixture.

    Serve

    Serve rolled in a warm tortilla with grated jack cheese, diced white onion, and chopped cilantro.

    Serve with Salsa Verde, a side of Mexican Rice, and a tomato-cucumber salad with Espiau’s Vinaigrette.

    For smothered burritos, heat one 28 oz (794 g) can of Los Palmas green enchilada sauce. Add 1 tbsp (12 g) sugar and ⅓ cup (80 ml) of the remaining braising liquid; heat to boiling. Whisk in ¼–½ tsp xanthan gum to thicken slightly. Spoon some into the burrito, then smother with sauce and cheese; broil to melt.

    Yield: 8–10 servings.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • The seasoned braising liquid gives the pork a rich, well-developed flavor during pressure cooking, making this recipe especially convenient for serving large groups.
    • For a milder filling, use only 1 cup (240 ml) enchilada sauce; for richer sauciness, use the full 2 cups (475 ml).
    • Be sure to sauté the onions until lightly browned—this adds sweetness and depth to the bean mixture.
    • The original version of this family recipe can be found here: Original Chile Verde Burritos.

    Variations

    • Chicken: Substitute half the pork with chicken thighs for a lighter filling.
    • Hatch Chiles: Use Hatch green chiles in place of Ortega for a smokier, more robust flavor.
    • Extra Heat: To make it spicier, add an extra minced jalapeño to the bean mixture.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Great served with Mexican Rice, Salsa Verde, and plenty of fresh cilantro.
    • For a crowd, keep tortillas warm in a low oven and serve burrito fillings buffet-style.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Filling can be prepared 1–2 days in advance; flavor improves as it rests.
    • Store filling separately from tortillas to prevent sogginess.
    • Leftovers freeze well for up to 3 months—thaw and reheat gently before serving.
  • Babi Panggang — Indonesian Roasted Pork

    Babi Panggang — Indonesian Roasted Pork

    Working in the office in the city of Bussum in The Netherlands, we’d often order take-out from our favorite Chinese-Indonesian restaurant, Tong Fong, in the neighboring city of Hilversum. One stand-out item was their delicious Babi Panggang, which was always a part of our order. I later learned that Babi Panggang is the most ordered main dish at Indonesian restaurants throughout the Netherlands. This is my attempt to recreate the vibrant flavors and textures of this delicious dish.

    Ingredients

    • 2 lb pork shoulder or belly

      • Marinade

    • ¼ cup ketjap manis
    • 2 tbsp hoisin sauce
    • 2 tbsp rice cooking wine
    • 1 tbsp brown sugar
    • 1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated
    • 1 tbsp fish sauce
    • ½ tbsp sambal oelek
    • ½ tbsp sambal badjak
    • ½ tsp toasted sesame oil (optional)
    • ¼ tsp Chinese five spice (optional)
    • 2 cloves garlic, minced
    • Juice and zest of 1 lime

      • Sweet & Sour Red Sauce

    • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 2–3 cloves garlic, minced
    • 2 tsp grated ginger
    • ½ tsp sambal oelek
    • 3 tbsp tomato paste
    • ¼ tsp chicken powder
    • ¼ cup sweet chili sauce
    • 3 tbsp ketchup
    • 2 tbsp lime juice
    • 2 tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
    • 1 tbsp Tamarind Paste
    • 1 tbsp ketjap manis
    • 1 tsp fish sauce
    • ¾ cup chicken stock or water
    • ¼ cup brown sugar (adjust to taste)
    • 1 tbsp cornstarch mixed with 1 tbsp water

    Directions

    Marinate the Pork

    Combine all marinade ingredients, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Pour into a resealable container or vacuum-seal bag. Add the pork, coating thoroughly. Seal and marinate in the refrigerator for 4–12 hours.

    Sweet & Sour Red Sauce

    Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Sauté onion until lightly browned; add garlic, ginger, and sambal, and cook until fragrant. Add tomato paste and chicken powder; cook 1 minute to develop sweetness.

    Stir in sweet chili sauce, ketchup, lime juice, vinegar, tamarind, ketjap manis, fish sauce, stock or water, and brown sugar. Simmer 10 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Add the cornstarch slurry and simmer until glossy and thickened. Blend with an immersion blender and adjust thickness with additional stock, if needed.

    Preparation #1: Sous Vide

    Preheat sous vide bath to 170°F / 77°C for pork shoulder (130°F / 55°C for pork loin or tenderloin; 150°F / 65°C for pork belly). Submerge vacuum-sealed pork and marinade in the water bath and heat for 12–24 hours (2–8 hours for pork loin or tenderloin).

    Remove from the bag and pat dry. Brush with oil and finish under a broiler set to high for 4–5 minutes to crisp the top. Brush with red sauce during broiling and allow it to develop a few bits of char.

    Slice and serve over rice with a generous amount of sauce. Serve with acar ketimun (pickled vegetables), cucumber salad, fried cabbage, and/or blanched green beans tossed with garlic and sesame oil.

    Preparation #2: Oven

    Preheat oven to 350°F / 177°C. Place pork on a rack in a baking tray. Reserve marinade and boil in a saucepan for 5 minutes. Roast pork for 30–40 minutes per pound, or until internal temperature reaches 190°F / 88°C, basting with the boiled marinade halfway through.

    Rest pork for 20 minutes. Pat dry, brush with oil, and finish under a broiler set to high for 4–5 minutes to crisp the top. Optionally, baste with the red sauce while broiling and allow it to develop slight char.

    Slice and serve over rice with a generous amount of sauce. Serve with acar ketimun, cucumber salad, fried cabbage, and/or blanched green beans tossed with garlic and sesame oil.

    Preparation #3: Pellet Grill

    Preheat pellet grill to 250°F / 120°C. Smoke until internal temperature reaches 187°F / 86°C, basting halfway through. Rest pork for 30 minutes.

    Pat dry, brush with oil, and finish under a broiler set to high for 4–5 minutes to crisp the top. Optionally, baste with the red sauce while broiling and allow it to develop light char.

    Slice and serve over rice with a generous amount of sauce. Serve with acar ketimun, cucumber salad, fried cabbage, and/or blanched green beans tossed with garlic and sesame oil.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Fattier cuts such as pork shoulder or belly are preferred, but pork loin or tenderloin (especially when using the sous vide method, with times and temperatures adjusted accordingly) can also be used. Take care not to overcook leaner cuts.
    • Preparation #1, Sous Vide, is the preferred method for the most tender and flavorful result.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Serve sliced Babi Panggang over rice with plenty of red sauce spooned on top.
    • Pair with acar ketimun, fried cabbage, cucumber salad, or blanched green beans with garlic and sesame oil.
  • Char Siu

    Char Siu

    With 60 first cousins on just the Huggins side, family parties are rarely small. It isn’t unusual to have 40 to 75 guests for dinner at our get-togethers. Cooking for that many people forces a bit of food-preparation creativity, and this char siu takes advantage of sous-vide precision to simplify the process. For a more traditional method, the pork can also be cooked and basted over a hot charcoal grill for deep, smoky flavor.

    Ingredients

    • 3–4 lbs pork shoulder, cut into 3–4 long strips, about 2 inches thick (see Notes for pork belly option)

      • Marinade:

    • ¾ cup soy sauce
    • ½ cup hoisin sauce
    • ½ cup Shaoxing wine (or dry sherry)
    • ½ cup rock sugar, crushed (or ¼ cup rock sugar + ¼ cup white sugar)
    • 2 tbsp oyster sauce (optional, adds depth)
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh ginger
    • 4 garlic cloves, minced
    • 1 tsp toasted sesame oil
    • 1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder
    • ½ tsp ground white pepper
    • ⅛ tsp pink curing salt #1 (optional, for rosy interior)
    • 3–5 drops red food coloring (optional, classic look)

      • Glaze:

    • 1 cup reserved marinade, strained
    • ¼–⅓ cup honey

    Directions

    Marinate the Pork

    Whisk together all marinade ingredients except the curing salt and honey. Reserve 1 cup of marinade, strain, and refrigerate for the glaze.

    Add curing salt to the remaining marinade. Place pork strips in vacuum-seal bags or heavy zipper bags and add the marinade. Seal and refrigerate at least 8–12 hours, up to 24 hours.

    For best flavor and color penetration, turn the bags occasionally during marinating.

    Sous-Vide Cook

    Preheat the sous-vide water bath to 65°C (149°F). Submerge the sealed pork and cook for 12–16 hours.

    When done, remove the pork and transfer to a rack set over a sheet pan. Pat dry gently.

    Prepare the Glaze

    In a small saucepan, combine the reserved marinade with honey. Simmer over medium heat until reduced by about half and syrupy. Keep warm.

    Dry and Broil

    Let the pork rest uncovered on the rack for 15–20 minutes so the surface becomes slightly tacky. This helps the glaze adhere during broiling.

    Preheat your broiler (or charcoal grill) to very hot. Brush the pork with glaze and broil 6–8 minutes total, turning and re-glazing every 1–2 minutes until lacquered with caramelized edges and light char.

    Keep pork about 6 inches from the broiler to prevent burning. Final internal temperature should be approximately 68–70°C (155–158°F), though the meat is already fully cooked from the sous-vide process.

    Rest and Serve

    Let pork rest 5 minutes, then slice into thick pieces. Drizzle with warm glaze before serving.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Crushing rock sugar before measuring ensures accurate sweetness and easier dissolving.
    • Optional curing salt deepens the rosy color but does not affect flavor.
    • Turning the pork during marinating promotes even seasoning and color.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Serve over steamed jasmine rice or noodles.
    • Pair with pickled cucumbers or a crisp slaw to balance richness.
    • Excellent in bao buns or sliced thinly for Fried Rice with Shrimp & Char Siu.

    Variations

    • Pork Belly Version: Remove skin, cut into 1½–2-inch strips, reduce sugar to ⅓ cup total, sous-vide at 70°C (158°F) for 10–12 hours, broil from 8 inches away, glazing every minute.
    • Grill Instead of Broil: Cook over hot charcoal, glazing and turning every 1–2 minutes until lacquered.
    • Extra Caramelization: Increase honey in the glaze up to ½ cup for a deeper lacquer.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Pork can be marinated up to 24 hours in advance.
    • Sous-vide cooked pork can be chilled in the sealed bags up to 48 hours before finishing.
    • Leftovers keep 3–4 days refrigerated; broil briefly to refresh the glaze.