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THE HUGGINS FAMILY

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Continental classics — comforting breads, pastries, stews, sauces, street foods, and regional favorites.

  • Italian-American Meat Sauce

    Italian-American Meat Sauce

    This Meat Sauce is a classic Italian-American style simmered sauce built for depth and balance: well-browned meat, layered tomato flavor, dried herbs, and just enough savory backbone to make it craveable without tipping into heaviness. Blooming the tomato paste adds richness and sweetness, while a short covered simmer softens acidity before finishing uncovered to concentrate flavor. It’s a sauce that’s excellent fresh, but even better the next day—exactly what a great red sauce should be.

    Ingredients

    • 2 tbsp olive oil
    • 1 cup (8 oz) onion, chopped
    • 5 cloves garlic, minced
    • 1 lb ground chuck beef (or ½ lb ground chuck and ½ lb uncased Italian sausage)
    • 1 can (28 oz) crushed tomatoes
    • 1 can (15 oz) tomato sauce
    • 1 can (6 oz) tomato paste
    • 1 cup chicken broth
    • ¼–½ cup dry white or dry red wine (optional)
    • 1 tbsp fish sauce
    • 2 tsp dried basil
    • 2 tsp dried parsley
    • 1 tsp dried oregano
    • ½ tsp dried ground fennel
    • ¼ tsp dried thyme leaves
    • 2 whole cloves, crushed
    • 2 bay leaves
    • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
    • 1 tsp table salt

    Directions

    Build the Sauce

    In a Dutch oven over medium heat, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the onion and sauté until translucent and tender, about 5–7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes more, just until fragrant.

    Add the ground meat and cook, breaking it up with a spoon, until well browned and any excess moisture has cooked off.

    Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1–2 minutes, allowing it to bloom and darken slightly to deepen sweetness and round acidity.

    Stir in the crushed tomatoes, tomato sauce, chicken broth, wine (if using), and fish sauce. Add the dried herbs, fennel, thyme, crushed cloves, bay leaves, pepper, and salt. Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer.

    Simmer

    Reduce heat to low and simmer covered for 30 minutes to soften acidity and allow the flavors to meld.

    Uncover and continue simmering for 15 minutes, allowing excess moisture to evaporate and the sauce to thicken. Remove and discard the bay leaves and crushed cloves before serving.

    Finish the Pasta

    Boil pasta as directed until al dente. Drain, reserving some of the pasta cooking water.

    Place enough warmed meat sauce in a serving bowl to lightly coat the pasta. Stir in a small splash of the reserved pasta water to loosen the sauce, then add the pasta and toss gently to coat. Serve topped with additional meat sauce and freshly grated Romano and/or Parmesan cheese.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Anchovy Option: The fish sauce may be replaced with 4–6 anchovy fillets, finely minced. Add them with the garlic so they dissolve into the oil and meat as the sauce cooks.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    This sauce improves with time and is best when made a day ahead and reheated.

    • Refrigerate in airtight containers for up to 3 days.
    • Freeze for up to 3 months.
    • Reheat gently on the stovetop over low heat, adding a splash of water or broth as needed to loosen the sauce.
  • Spanakopita Triangles

    Spanakopita Triangles

    These spanakopita triangles are crisp, buttery, and filled with a savory blend of spinach, feta, and fresh herbs. Dill leads the flavor, supported by parsley and a subtle hint of mint, creating a filling that’s bright, aromatic, and unmistakably Mediterranean. Baked until golden and shatteringly crisp, they’re perfect as an appetizer, mezze platter addition, or make-ahead snack.

    Ingredients

    • 1 tbsp olive oil (or butter)
    • ½ onion, finely diced
    • 1 tsp garlic, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped (or 2 tsp dried dill)
    • 1 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped (or 1 tsp dried parsley)
    • ¼ tsp dried mint
    • ¾–1 tsp shoarma spice mix (optional)
    • 1 package (12–16 oz) frozen spinach, thawed and very well squeezed dry, or equivalent fresh spinach, cooked down and drained
    • 1 egg, lightly beaten
    • ½ cup crumbled feta
    • salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste
    • frozen phyllo dough, thawed
    • butter, melted

    Directions

    Prepare the Filling

    Preheat oven to 375ºF. Line two half-sheet pans with parchment. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add olive oil (or butter). Add onion and cook until softened but not browned.

    Stir in garlic, dill, parsley, mint, and shoarma spice mix (if using) and cook just until fragrant.

    Use a clean tea towel to squeeze as much liquid as possible from the spinach; coarsely chop if needed. Add spinach to the skillet and heat through. Remove from heat and let cool slightly, then stir in egg and feta. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

    Assemble the Triangles

    While the phyllo is still wrapped, use a sharp knife to cut it into 3 equal sections (about 3″ wide strips). Work with one section at a time, keeping the remaining dough covered with plastic or a lightly damp towel to prevent drying.

    Place one strip of phyllo on the work surface and brush lightly with melted butter. Top with a second strip and brush again. Place about ½ tbsp of filling near the bottom corner. Fold the corner over the filling to form a triangle, then continue folding in a flag pattern up the strip, maintaining the triangle shape. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet.

    Bake

    Repeat with remaining phyllo and filling, spacing triangles slightly apart. Bake for 18–22 minutes, until crisp and golden brown.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Spinach must be squeezed very dry to prevent soggy filling and torn phyllo.

    Variations

    • Shoarma Spice Mix: This is a non-traditional addition. Classic Greek spanakopita relies on fresh herbs rather than warm spice blends. Used sparingly here, it adds subtle warmth and depth; omit it for a fully traditional Greek flavor.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Unbaked triangles may be frozen solid and baked from frozen, adding 3–5 minutes to the bake time.
  • Spaghetti & Meat Balls

    Spaghetti & Meat Balls

    This Spaghetti & Meatballs is built the way a great red-sauce Sunday dinner should be: deeply savory, richly tomatoey, and unapologetically comforting. The meatballs are intentionally tender and juicy—thanks to a buttermilk panade and a little gelatin—then roasted for browning before finishing in the sauce so everything tastes like it belongs together. It’s a big-batch, make-ahead-friendly classic that feels special on a weeknight and even better the next day.

    Ingredients

    Meatballs

    • 6 oz bread crumbs
    • 1½ cups buttermilk
    • 1 pkg (+/- ½ tbsp) powdered gelatin, bloomed in ¼ cup water
    • 3 eggs, slightly beaten
    • 1+ tbsp garlic, minced
    • ⅓ cup (packed) fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped
    • ½ tbsp table salt
    • ½ tsp pepper
    • 3 oz Parmesan cheese, grated
    • 6 oz prosciutto, finely chopped
    • 2 lbs ground beef
    • 1 lb ground pork

    Sauce

    • 2 tbsp olive oil
    • 1 cup (8-oz) onion, chopped
    • 5 cloves garlic, minced
    • 1 can (28-oz) crushed tomatoes
    • 1 can (15-oz) tomato sauce
    • 1 can (6-oz) tomato paste
    • 1½ cups chicken broth
    • ½ cup dry white wine (optional)
    • 1 tbsp fish sauce
    • 2 tsp dried basil
    • 2 tsp dried parsley
    • 1 tsp dried oregano
    • ½ tsp dried ground fennel
    • ¼ tsp dried thyme leaves
    • 2 whole cloves, crushed
    • 2 bay leaves
    • ½ tsp fresh ground pepper
    • 1 tsp table salt
    • 1–2 lbs dry spaghetti

    Directions

    Prepare the Oven and Pans

    Preheat oven to 450ºF with cooking racks mid-top and mid-bottom of oven.

    Place foil and wire racks in 2 half sheet pans; spray racks with cooking spray.

    Make the Meatballs

    Combine bread crumbs and buttermilk and stir to completely combine. Soak bread crumbs to fully hydrate, about 10 minutes, then mash into a paste.

    Bloom gelatin in ¼ cup cold water for 8–10 minutes.

    Place bread crumb mixture into a mixing bowl. Mix in bloomed gelatin, followed by all remaining ingredients except beef and pork; mix well to combine.

    Place meats in a large mixing bowl; pour egg/bread crumb mixture over meat and mix gently by hand until thoroughly combined.

    Portion and form into individual balls, about 3-oz each (29–30 meatballs). If necessary, refrigerate to firm.

    Place meatballs on the greased racks and bake for about 30 minutes, rotating trays and tray locations after 20 minutes.

    Make the Sauce

    In a Dutch oven over medium heat, heat olive oil until shimmering; add onion and garlic and sauté until onion is translucent and tender.

    Stir in crushed tomatoes, tomato sauce, tomato paste, chicken broth, wine (optional), and fish sauce; add remaining herbs, spices, and seasonings.

    Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and simmer covered for 15 minutes.

    Braise the Meatballs in the Sauce

    After removing cooked meatballs from oven, lower oven temperature to 300ºF.

    Add meatballs to sauce; cover with lid and place in oven for 1 hour.

    Remove and discard bay leaves before serving.

    Cook the Pasta and Serve

    Prepare spaghetti as directed; drain, retaining some of the pasta water in a separate bowl.

    Add pasta back to the cooking pot along with a small amount of pasta water and about ¼ cup sauce; toss until pasta is coated.

    Serve pasta topped with meatballs, additional sauce, and grated Parmesan.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Fish sauce can be replaced by 4–6 anchovy filets, finely minced.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Optional finish: garnish bowls with a light chiffonade of fresh basil and/or a sprinkle of fresh parsley for extra brightness.

    Variations

    • Parmesan can be swapped for a mixture of Parmesan and Romano cheeses.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Can be made a day in advance and reheated.
    • Add ¾ cup water over mixture and reheat covered at 325ºF.
  • Dutch Mayonnaise — Calvé-Style from American Mayo

    Dutch Mayonnaise — Calvé-Style from American Mayo

    Dutch mayonnaise is tangier, slightly sweeter, and noticeably lighter in flavor than most American mayonnaises. Brands like Calvé and Remia are designed to complement fries and snack-bar sauces without overwhelming them—especially when paired with shoarmasaus, kerrieketchup, or poestasaus. This simple adjustment transforms standard American mayonnaise (such as Best Foods or Hellmann’s) into a closer approximation of Dutch-style mayo, making it a better match for patat, broodjes, and classic Dutch snackbar dishes.

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup American mayonnaise (Best Foods / Hellmann’s recommended)
    • 1½–2 tsp white wine vinegar or distilled vinegar
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1–2 tbsp neutral oil or water (to lighten texture)
    • pinch table salt (optional, to taste)

    Directions

    Adjust the Mayonnaise

    In a bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, and 1 tbsp oil or water until smooth. Taste and adjust vinegar or sugar slightly if needed—the mayo should taste brighter and lighter than American-style mayonnaise.

    Set the Flavor

    Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavor to settle. Whisk again before serving.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Dutch mayonnaise is tangier than American mayo but not sharply acidic.
    • The small amount of sugar is important—it softens the acidity and mimics Dutch formulations.
    • Lightening with oil or water helps reduce the heavy mouthfeel typical of American mayonnaise.
    • Taste the mayo cold, as it will be served.

    Serving Suggestions

    Variations

    • Calvé-Leaning: Increase vinegar slightly and keep the texture light.
    • Remia-Leaning: Use the full 2 tbsp oil or water for a looser, more pourable mayo.
    • Frietsaus-Style: Replace half the mayonnaise with plain yogurt or milk for a lighter Dutch fry sauce.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 1 week.
    • Whisk briefly before serving if the texture thickens.
  • Knoflooksaus — Dutch Garlic Sauce

    Knoflooksaus — Dutch Garlic Sauce

    This creamy, garlicky sauce is a staple of Dutch shoarma restaurants and late-night snack bars. Smooth, tangy, and richly flavored with garlic and parsley, it’s perfect for serving with shoarma, fries, grilled meats, or pita bread—bringing a taste of The Netherlands to your kitchen.

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups Dutch mayonnaise (e.g., Remia, Calvé, or Zaanse)
    • ¾ cup Greek yogurt
    • 3 tbsp finely grated fresh garlic (or 4–5 tbsp mild garlic paste)
    • 3 tbsp parsley, very finely minced
    • 2 tsp ketjap manis, plus more to taste
    • ¼ tsp table salt
    • ½ tsp white wine vinegar or lemon juice (optional, for a brighter tang)
    • ⅛ tsp white pepper (optional)

    Directions

    Mellow the Garlic

    In a bowl, combine the Greek yogurt and grated garlic. Let stand 10–15 minutes to lightly mellow the garlic before adding the mayonnaise.

    Mix the Sauce

    Add the Dutch mayonnaise, parsley, ketjap manis, salt, and (if using) the vinegar or lemon juice and white pepper. Stir until smooth and evenly blended.

    Chill and Develop Flavor

    Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight, to allow the flavors to mellow and the sauce to thicken.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • For a milder garlic flavor, reduce the garlic to 2 tbsp and let the sauce rest overnight.
    • For the most authentic Dutch flavor, use Dutch mayonnaise (such as Calvé or Remia). If using American mayonnaise (e.g., Best Foods or Hellmann’s), adjust it first using our Dutch Mayonnaise — Calvé-Style from American Mayo recipe before making the sauce.
    • Use mild garlic paste if you prefer a smoother, less pungent profile.
    • Parsley should be minced very finely to avoid a chewy texture; adjust to taste.
    • Ketjap manis is meant to round the flavor, not sweeten the sauce—start with 2 tsp and add more only if needed.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Serve with Dutch-style shoarma.
    • Drizzle over fries, grilled meats, or kebabs.
    • Use as a dip for pita bread or fresh vegetables.

    Variations

    • Brighter tang: Add the optional vinegar or lemon juice (or increase slightly) for a lighter, snack-bar-style lift.
    • Smoother profile: Use mild garlic paste and reduce parsley slightly.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Best made at least 4 hours in advance for full flavor development.
    • Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 5 days.
    • Stir before serving; sauce naturally thickens as it chills.
  • Shoarma Kruiden — Dutch-Inspired Shawarma Spice Mix

    Shoarma Kruiden — Dutch-Inspired Shawarma Spice Mix

    This shoarma kruiden blend captures the warm, paprika-forward flavor of Dutch shoarma shops—perfect for keeping on hand so you can quickly season meat for broodje shoarma, wraps, and grilled dishes whenever the craving hits.

    Ingredients

    Paprika Base

    • 2 tbsp paprika
    • 2 tsp garlic powder
    • 2 tsp onion powder

    Warm, Savory Spices

    • 2 tsp ground coriander
    • 1½ tsp ground cumin
    • 1 tsp ground ginger
    • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
    • ½ tsp ground black pepper
    • ¼ tsp ground nutmeg
    • ⅛ tsp ground mace
    • ⅛ tsp ground cloves

    Color & Heat

    • ½ tsp turmeric
    • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper (adjust to taste)

    Optional (Authentic for Some Shops)

    • ⅛ tsp ground fennel

    Directions

    Prepare the Spice Mix

    In a small bowl, combine the paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, coriander, cumin, ginger, cinnamon, black pepper, nutmeg, mace, cloves, turmeric, cayenne, and fennel (if using). Mix thoroughly until the spices are evenly blended.

    Transfer the shoarma kruiden to an airtight jar or spice container. Label and store in a cool, dark cupboard.

    For general use, plan on about 1 tbsp shoarma kruiden per 1 lb (450 g) meat, adjusting to taste.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • This blend is intentionally prepared without salt, since many Dutch shoarma shops season the meat separately. Salt your meat to taste before or during cooking.
    • For the most vibrant flavor, use fresh spices and replace the mix every 6 months or so; older spices are still safe but lose potency over time.
    • If your spices are coarse or slightly clumpy, you can pulse the finished blend a few times in a spice grinder to create a finer, more uniform texture.
    • Because this mix is quite aromatic, store it in a well-sealed container away from light and heat to preserve its Dutch shoarma character.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Use about 1 tbsp shoarma kruiden per 1 lb (450 g) thinly sliced chicken thigh, pork shoulder, turkey, or lamb for classic Dutch-style shoarma.
    • For a dry-style preparation common in shoarma shops, toss the seasoned meat with 1–2 tbsp neutral oil and cook in a hot skillet or on a griddle until browned and lightly crisp at the edges.
    • For a simple wet marinade, combine 1 tbsp shoarma kruiden with 1 tbsp oil or plain yogurt and 1 tsp lemon juice per 1 lb (450 g) meat. Marinate 1–12 hours before cooking.
    • Serve the cooked meat in warm pita or Turkish bread as a broodje shoarma, with shredded lettuce, tomato, onion, and Dutch-style garlic sauce (knoflooksaus).
    • This blend also works well for sheet-pan dinners, grilled skewers, or roasted vegetables for a Dutch shoarma-inspired twist.

    Variations

    • Sweeter Dutch-Snackbar Style: Add 1 tsp sugar to the full batch of shoarma kruiden. The sugar will lightly caramelize on the griddle and echo the slightly sweeter flavor of some late-night shoarma shops.
    • Spicier (Rotterdam-Lean): Increase the cayenne to ½–¾ tsp for a more assertive heat while still keeping the overall Dutch flavor profile.
    • Warmer Dutch-Indo Aroma: For a slightly richer, Amsterdam-leaning warmth, increase the ginger to 1½ tsp and the mace to ¼ tsp, keeping the other spices the same.
    • Salted Convenience Blend: If you prefer an all-in-one seasoning, you can add 1 tbsp table salt to the full batch. When using this salted version, reduce or omit any additional salt added directly to the meat.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Prepare a double or triple batch and store it in a tightly sealed jar so you always have shoarma kruiden ready for quick meals.
    • For best flavor, use within about 6 months; the blend will remain safe beyond that, but the aromatics will gradually lose intensity.
    • If you live in a hot climate, you can store the jar in the refrigerator or freezer to help preserve the essential oils in the spices.
    • Always use a clean, dry measuring spoon when scooping from the jar to prevent moisture from clumping the spices.
  • Gnocchi

    Gnocchi

    Light, pillowy gnocchi made from baked potatoes for the best possible texture. Rooted in northern Italian tradition, this simple dish traveled across the Atlantic with generations of Italian immigrants and found a second home in Argentina. Our family’s version emphasizes gentle handling, minimal flour, and a buttery golden finish—echoing the gnocchi Jane enjoyed while living in the mountains of Argentina, where gracious families gathered around humble tables to share food, laughter, and the quiet joy of good company.

    Ingredients

    • 2 lbs (900 g) russet or Yukon Gold potatoes
    • ¾ tsp table salt
    • 1–1½ cups all-purpose flour (start with 1 cup; add only as needed)
    • 1 large egg, lightly beaten (see variation)

    Directions

    Bake the Potatoes

    Bake whole, unpeeled potatoes at 400°F (200°C) until tender, about 1 hour. Split immediately after baking to allow steam to escape—this prevents sogginess.

    Scoop out the flesh and rice or mash while still warm.

    Prepare the Dough

    Spread the riced potatoes out on a board or tray and allow to cool slightly until just warm to the touch. Sprinkle evenly with salt.

    Add about ¾ of the flour over the potatoes, then drizzle the beaten egg over the top. Using your hands or a bench scraper, gently fold and press the mixture together, adding only enough additional flour to form a soft dough.

    Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and gently knead for 15–20 seconds, just until smooth. The dough should feel soft and slightly tacky, but not sticky—avoid overworking.

    Shape the Gnocchi

    Roll dough into ¾-inch ropes. Cut into ¾–1 inch pieces using a bench scraper for cleaner cuts.

    Shape on a fork or gnocchi board if desired. Lightly dust formed gnocchi with semolina or flour to prevent sticking.

    Cook the Gnocchi

    Bring a large pot of salted water (as for pasta) to a boil. Cook gnocchi in 2–3 batches until they float, then cook 30 seconds longer. Remove gently with a strainer and keep warm.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Russets make the lightest gnocchi; Yukon Golds give a slightly richer, denser texture.
    • Flour should equal roughly 20–30% of potato weight. Less flour yields lighter, more delicate gnocchi.
    • Chill dough for 10–15 minutes before shaping if it feels too soft.
    • Salt cooking water generously—about 1–2 tbsp per gallon.
    • Test one gnocchi before cooking the full batch. If it falls apart, gently knead in 1–2 tbsp more flour.
    • For best texture, avoid kneading more than 15–20 seconds.
    • Remember: once gnocchi float, cook for an additional 30 seconds.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Toss with Browned Butter Sage Sauce and finish with parmesan and a squeeze of lemon.
    • Sauté boiled gnocchi in butter until golden, then toss with a light cream sauce, browned mushrooms, spinach, and spicy Italian sausage.
    • Serve with Pomodoro, Pesto alla Genovese, or Gorgonzola Cream Sauce.

    Variations

    • Use 1 egg for pillowy, restaurant-style gnocchi. Add a second egg for a firmer, rustic dough.
    • Add a pinch of nutmeg and 1–2 tbsp ricotta for a richer dough (add flour as needed).
    • For a classic eggless northern Italian version, omit the egg and increase flour slightly to reach a soft, workable dough.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Shaped gnocchi may be refrigerated on a lightly floured tray for up to 4 hours before cooking.
    • To freeze, arrange uncooked gnocchi in a single layer until solid, then transfer to a freezer bag. Cook directly from frozen—do not thaw.
    • Cooked gnocchi can be refrigerated for 2–3 days and pan-seared in butter just before serving.
  • Snert — Erwtensoep — Dutch Split Pea Soup

    Snert — Erwtensoep — Dutch Split Pea Soup

    Snert, or Dutch split pea soup, is a beloved winter tradition in the Netherlands. This hearty, comforting soup warms cold bodies after a day of skating on frozen canals. Every family has its own cherished version, often prepared a day in advance so the flavors can deepen and the soup can thicken to its signature consistency—thick enough that a spoon can stand upright in the bowl. I first tasted snert in the province of Friesland, just after watching ice skaters compete in the Elfstedentocht, the legendary eleven-city race that only takes place in years when the ice is thick enough to carry thousands of racers across the canals.

    Ingredients

      For the Stock

    • 2 smoked ham hocks (about 2 lb total)
    • 10 cups (2.4 L) low-sodium chicken stock
    • 1 onion, halved
    • 1 celery stalk, cut in chunks
    • 1 small carrot, cut in chunks
    • 1 bay leaf
    • 4 parsley stems
    • ½ tsp black peppercorns

      • For the Soup

    • 4 cups (800 g) dried green split peas, rinsed
    • 2 tbsp unsalted butter
    • 1 medium onion, finely diced
    • 1 leek (white and light green parts only), thinly sliced
    • 2 celery stalks, finely diced (reserve a few leaves for garnish)
    • 1 medium carrot, finely diced
    • ½ small celeriac (or 1 potato), finely diced
    • ½ tsp dried thyme
    • ¼ tsp white pepper
    • ½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine (optional but adds brightness)

      • To Finish

    • 8 oz (225 g) rookworst or smoked sausage, thinly sliced
    • 1–2 tsp apple cider vinegar (to taste)
    • Kosher or table salt, to taste
    • Small knob of butter or splash of cream (optional, for gloss)
    • Celery leaves, celery leaf oil or finely chopped parsley, for garnish

    Directions

    Make the Stock (Can Be Done a Day Ahead)

    Place ham hocks, chicken stock, onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf, parsley stems, and peppercorns in a large pot. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for 1½ hours, skimming foam as needed.

    Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve and set aside. Discard the vegetables but reserve the hocks for meat later.

    Build the Flavor Base

    In a clean soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add onion, leek, celery, carrot, and celeriac. Sweat gently (do not brown) for 6–8 minutes until softened and aromatic. Add thyme and white pepper.

    Deglaze and Simmer

    If using, pour in white wine and simmer 1–2 minutes to reduce slightly. Add split peas and enough of the strained ham stock to cover by about 1 inch (you’ll have some stock left to adjust consistency later). Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook gently for 1½–2 hours, stirring occasionally, until peas have completely softened.

    Blend for Smoothness

    Remove from heat. Transfer about ¾ of the soup to a blender (or use an immersion blender) and puree until silky smooth. Pass through a fine mesh sieve or chinois for a restaurant-quality texture.

    Return the puree to the pot along with the remaining unblended portion for a touch of rustic body.

    Add Meats and Adjust Seasoning

    Remove skin and bones from the ham hocks, finely dice the meat, and stir it into the soup with the sliced sausage. Simmer gently for 15–20 minutes to meld flavors.

    Add vinegar, salt, and black pepper to taste. For a glossy finish, swirl in a small knob of butter or a splash of cream.

    Fine-Tune Texture

    Adjust consistency with reserved stock as needed. We prefer that it be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, but not so dense that it feels heavy, although many like it thick enough to stand a spoon in it.

    Serve

    Ladle the soup into wide, shallow bowls. Arrange a few slices of sausage and cubes of ham neatly in the center. Garnish with a few drops of celery leaf oil or a drizzle of olive oil. Add finely chopped celery leaves or micro herbs for color and freshness. Optionally, serve with a crisp rye toast point or small bacon tuile on the rim.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Keep heat gentle during simmering to preserve the soup’s bright green hue.
    • The vinegar is key—it sharpens the flavor and keeps it from feeling heavy.
    • Passing through a fine sieve gives the soup that unmistakable restaurant-level smoothness.
    • Like all good snert, it deepens in flavor overnight. Reheat gently and adjust texture before serving.

    EASY RUSTIC VERSION

    Ingredients

    • 4 cups dried split peas, rinsed
    • 2 ham hocks
    • 8 chicken bouillon cubes
    • 1 onion, finely diced
    • 1 bunch leeks, thinly sliced (green tops discarded)
    • 1 bunch celery (including leaves), finely chopped
    • 2 bay leaves
    • kielbasa (or smoked sausage), cut into disks
    • vinegar

    Directions

    Combine all ingredients except kielbasa and vinegar in a crock pot; add water to about 1 inch from the top of the crock pot. Cook on high for approximately 8 hours.

    Remove hocks and bay leaves; slice meat from hocks and add back to soup (discard bones and skin).

    Stir in kielbasa and cook for an additional hour. Add a small amount of vinegar just prior to serving to brighten the flavor.

  • Anijsmelk — Dutch Star-Anise Steamer

    Anijsmelk — Dutch Star-Anise Steamer

    Anijsmelk, the classic star-anise–flavored steamer of the Netherlands, is one of my favorite Dutch treats—simple, soothing, and steeped in nostalgia. Traditionally made by stirring anise-flavored sugar cubes (Anijsblokjes) into warm milk, it’s a comforting drink to warm your soul on a cold winter’s night. This homemade version captures that flavor with whole star anise and a touch of sweetness.

    Ingredients

    • 1 qt milk
    • 5–10 whole star anise
    • ⅛ tsp ground anise seed (optional, for rounder flavor)
    • 1–4 tbsp sugar, to taste (about 1 tsp per cup)
    • Small knob of butter or splash of cream (optional, for richness)

    Directions

    Infuse the Milk

    In a medium saucepan, warm the milk with the star anise over medium-low heat until steaming but not boiling. Reduce heat to low and let steep gently for 5–10 minutes, tasting occasionally to check flavor strength.

    Finish the Drink

    When the milk reaches your desired anise intensity, remove from heat and discard the star anise pods. Stir in sugar to taste and, if desired, add a small knob of butter or splash of cream for extra richness. Whisk briefly to create a light froth.

    Serve

    Pour hot into a teacup or mug and enjoy immediately. Optionally dust with a pinch of ground anise or cinnamon. Serve alongside a small Dutch biscuit or slice of buttered bread for an authentic touch.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • For the most authentic flavor, use a mix of whole star anise and a small pinch of ground anise seed.
    • Warm gently—avoid boiling, which can cause the milk to curdle or the flavor to become harsh.
    • Steep covered to preserve the delicate aroma of the anise.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Traditionally enjoyed as a bedtime drink or on cold evenings.
    • Serve in a warm ceramic cup with a dusting of ground anise, cinnamon, or nutmeg.
    • Pair with speculaas cookies or buttered toast for a cozy Dutch treat.

    Variations

    • Substitute honey or vanilla sugar for a more nuanced sweetness.
    • Add a drop of almond or vanilla extract for a gentle twist.
    • For a creamier version, replace 1 cup of milk with light cream.
  • Coconut Gelato

    Coconut Gelato

    There’s a quiet beauty to coconut when you let it stand on its own—clean, fragrant, and naturally sweet. This gelato leans into that simplicity with a smooth, silky texture and a pure coconut flavor that shines without distraction. Lightly toasted coconut infuses the base for depth, then strains away to keep every bite incredibly smooth.

    Ingredients

    Coconut Base

    • 1 can (13.5–14 oz) full-fat coconut milk
    • 1 cup whole milk
    • ⅔ cup granulated sugar
    • 3 large egg yolks
    • ⅛ tsp xanthan gum
    • ½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, lightly toasted
    • ¼ tsp fine salt
    • 1 tsp vanilla extract
    • ¼ tsp coconut extract (optional)

    Directions

    Prepare the Coconut Base

    Toast the shredded coconut in a dry skillet over medium heat until lightly golden and fragrant. Set aside.

    In a medium saucepan, whisk together the coconut milk, whole milk, half the sugar, and salt. Warm over medium heat until steaming but not boiling.

    In a separate bowl, whisk the remaining sugar with the egg yolks until pale. Slowly ladle in some of the warm coconut milk mixture while whisking constantly, then return everything to the saucepan.

    Cook gently over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the custard reaches 175–178°F and thickens slightly, just enough to coat the back of a spoon (nappe consistency). Do not boil.

    Infuse, Strain, Stabilize & Chill

    Remove from heat, stir in the toasted coconut, cover, and let steep for 20–30 minutes.

    Strain the custard through a fine mesh sieve to remove the coconut solids. While the base is still warm, stir in the vanilla extract and optional coconut extract.

    Sprinkle the xanthan gum evenly over the surface and blend with an immersion blender (or regular blender) for 10–15 seconds to fully disperse.

    Chill completely, preferably overnight.

    Churn

    Churn the gelato in your ice cream maker until smooth and thick. Transfer to a lidded container and freeze for 4–6 hours to set.

    Notes

    Preparation

    • Lightly toasting the coconut deepens flavor without adding texture, since it is strained out.
    • Xanthan gum prevents iciness and preserves a clean coconut profile without thickening the custard.
    • Use an instant-read thermometer to monitor the custard temperature; keeping it in the 175–178°F range ensures safety and proper thickening without curdling the yolks.

    Serving Suggestions

    • Serve with fresh pineapple or mango.
    • Pair with chocolate sauce or shaved dark chocolate.
    • Excellent alongside tropical cakes or fruit tarts.

    Variations

    • Dark Chocolate Coconut Gelato: Fold in ¾ cup chopped dark chocolate during the last minute of churning. Optional: add ½ tsp almond extract for an Almond-Joy style profile.
    • Pineapple Swirl: Simmer 1 cup pineapple with 2 tbsp sugar and a pinch of salt for 5–7 minutes. Blend smooth, chill, and layer into the gelato as you transfer it from the machine.
    • Mango Swirl: Blend 1 cup ripe mango with 2–3 tbsp sugar, chill fully, and swirl into the gelato for a marbled effect.

    Make-Ahead & Storage

    • Best texture is within the first 3–4 days.
    • Store tightly covered to prevent absorption of freezer odors.